{"id":1127,"date":"2023-06-01T20:09:00","date_gmt":"2023-06-02T00:09:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/medinaline.net\/tallulah\/?p=1127"},"modified":"2023-06-01T22:39:26","modified_gmt":"2023-06-02T02:39:26","slug":"replacing-the-ignition-switch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/medinaline.net\/tallulah\/index.php\/2023\/06\/01\/replacing-the-ignition-switch\/","title":{"rendered":"Replacing the Ignition Switch"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

As mentioned in Replacing Door Lock Cylinders (Again)<\/a>, I purchased a pair of door handles and ignition switch with matching key at Bugs & Buggies Kustom Autowerks in Denton, NC<\/a>. I replaced the door lock cylinders in that post last month, but had moved on to other things and never got around to replacing the ignition switch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yesterday evening after work, I started disassembling the steering wheel\/horn\/turn signal assembly to be able to get to the ignition switch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I only got so far before I found that I didn’t have the right size socket. My largest Stanley set only goes up to 22mm. Then of course, I have a 32mm impact socket for the axle nuts. Anyway, the info I found online said it was either going to be a 24mm or 27mm, with 27mm being the appropriate one for a 1968. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I went to O’Reilly and picked up both 24mm and 27mm deep well sockets. It was dusk by the time I got home and settled. So, I put it off until this evening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was a 27mm nut after all. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The metal cover\/trim piece around the ignition switch was only held on by one screw. The other one was missing. That’s fine. One screw appears to be plenty. It isn’t exactly a comfortable fit to get back in there. When I removed the screw, it fell off the end of the screwdriver and tried to fall down into the steering column cover. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

With the key in the ignition, I was able to pull the switch assembly out a little bit. From there I got a pick down into a hole and released the tumbler\/switch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The new tumbler\/switch mounted up with no issues.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

So I then started buttoning it all back up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

From what I have read, 1968 is a unique year in this area. The ignitions are supposed to be interchangeable 1968 through 1970. This new one is from a 1970 model. I’m not sure what’s happening. Once I got it all reassembled (with the horn working perfectly<\/em>, BTW) I found that the key wouldn’t pull back out of the ignition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I have heard that the 1969-70 models had a steering lock on the ignition and 1968 does not. That may be what’s happening here. The two cylinders appear<\/em> to be physically identical. Once the new one is slotted all the way back in and tight, the key won’t come out when in the Off position. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I had to completely disassemble it, including undoing my masterful horn ring adjustment…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I found that if I don’t fully seat the switch – with just a tiny gap – everything functions properly. However, in that state, you can pull the ignition switch out with the key when the car is on. I will have to be careful not to leave the switch hanging on my key ring. It happened with the car running a couple of times already.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When I got it all buttoned up, the horn wasn’t working properly. I had this problem last time I had it apart, when replacing the horn ring<\/a>. After fussing with the three screws for a long while, I could only achieve one of the following. One side works, the other side works, or constantly honking. I never actually got it fully functional again. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I’m going to put this away for now. I will tear it all back apart soon to get those contacts cleaned up. I have some WD-40 Electrical Contact cleaner spray. I’ll hose everything down with and scuff up the contact surfaces to get them all shiny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hopefully, I don’t need to replace the plastic\/nylon isolators around the horn ring screws. They are available to order online if it comes to that.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As mentioned in Replacing Door Lock Cylinders (Again), I purchased a pair of door handles and ignition switch with matching key at Bugs & Buggies Kustom Autowerks in Denton, NC. I replaced the door lock cylinders in that post last month, but had moved on to other things and never got around to replacing the… Continue reading Replacing the Ignition Switch<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1],"tags":[41,43,42,16,40],"yoast_head":"\nReplacing the Ignition Switch - Tallulah Beetlebug<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"I replaced the ignition switch and now both doors and the ignition all operate off the same key. 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