{"id":1106,"date":"2023-05-29T15:39:00","date_gmt":"2023-05-29T19:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/medinaline.net\/tallulah\/?p=1106"},"modified":"2023-06-08T14:27:29","modified_gmt":"2023-06-08T18:27:29","slug":"windshield-wiper-washer-switch-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/medinaline.net\/tallulah\/index.php\/2023\/05\/29\/windshield-wiper-washer-switch-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Windshield Wiper\/Washer Switch – Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

In Part 1<\/a>, I connected a windshield wiper\/washer switch from a Peterbilt truck in my 1968 Beetle and greatly improved functionality by adding intermittent wiper speeds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When I opened the bonnet, I noticed the new seal I mounted<\/a> had pulled out of the channel. I fixed that and moved on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I got the new switch mounted, but the shaft is just a little too short for the knob to mount and push button work properly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There’s a little set screw on the bottom of the knob. I struggled finding a screwdriver that would fit it. I eventually used one that came with a pair of glasses I bought.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In following with the quality level of other parts I have bought in the last year, the threads on the new switch were toast after test fitting it the first time. The threads are 11 x 1.0. Ask me how I know…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There was a double nut, one on the back side and a washer\/nut on the front side. The shaft was almost long enough to work, so I may have gotten away with just removing the back nut, but I decided to file down those cross markings on the face of the switch to gain an extra 1\/32″ of an inch or so.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I got that mounted and the switch was physically functional, so mission accomplished. Next, I moved on to mounting the washer tank. There’s no flat surface in there, since the original tank sat in a cubby hole behind the spare tire. The metal return line for the gas tank has solid body brackets in place and I was able to assemble an array of zip ties (seven of them, to be exact) and got the tank mounted.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

And now for the last two wires, running power from the push button on the switch to the fluid pump in the tank and a ground. The original switch was grounded on its face to the dash metal, so there was no specific ground wire. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the end of the blue (blue?) ground wire on the pump, I added some green wire (green?) and attached a female spade connector for the ground wire on the new switch, a forked adapter to attach to the body ground. On the power line, I added an inline fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Once that was connected and routed around the front trunk, I added a little washer fluid and tried it out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n